Showing posts with label Japan Adventures. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Japan Adventures. Show all posts

Saturday, July 22, 2017

Tips for Tokyo Summer Travelers

Summers in Tokyo are hot and steamy, and in 2020 a lot of travelers will be heading to Tokyo for the summer Olympic games. As hindsight is 20/20, I'm noting what I learned from my travels and sharing these summer travels tips for Toyko:

1. Travel light
Portable, light suitcases that can easily navigate the tight spaces of trains, smaller hotel rooms, and crowded public spaces are essential. Fewer belongings are better than wrestling with too many bags! A reasonably small roller suitcase and a backpack or bag work well- especially one that slips over the suitcase handle which also reduces back strain. I made my kids use carryon suitcases for their stuff and had them put their electronics, book, sweater, and snacks in a backpack for easy access. I had a larger suitcase with half of it stuffed with OU t-shirts (see #7 below).

2. Pack quick drying clothes
Laundry in Japan is generally dried on the clothesline or rack. Public laundries do have dryers, but if you only have access to a hotel or apartment amenities, laundering items in the sink will require you to hang them up to dry. Quick drying clothes (polyester fibers, nylon, etc.) ensure your clothes are dry and ready. This particularly is relevant to your underwear but also applies to most things of thick cotton which can take a long while to dry. Pack well by bringing less- follow the 5 4 3 2 1 rule, choose coordinating colors (pick one scheme), and roll your stuff up.

3. Carry a hand towel
Public restrooms rarely provide paper towels or air dryers in Japan. The Japanese carry small hand towels for drying their hands in the bathroom. Purchase a small (wash cloth sized) hand towel- easily found in a variety of stores- look for absorbing fibers and darker colors.

4. Skip the water bottle
Japan has vending machines on top of mountains. My point here is that vending machines are every where in Japan. It's hot in Tokyo, and you'll want that drink cold. Skip the reusable bottle, and plan to purchase beverages as needed. I recently observed a Tokyo business man in his suit pull out and chug a liter bottle of o-cha at a cross walk- convenience stores sell single servings as well as half and full liter bottles. Restaurants do not generally provide refills in Japan, and in Japan, a small beverage is smaller than in America. Hydration might cost you a bit more in Japan, but you will need your fluids, and you'll appreciate them cold.

5. Pack out your garbage
Garbage can be complicated in Japan. At it's simplest you can find containers for "burnable" and "recyclable." However, you often have to pack out your garbage which means it is something to be mindful of that when you create trash, you'll need to think about when and where you can dispose of it. Sometimes this means carrying it for a bit. For example, some vending machines have a recycling collection for the bottles, but not always. Don't expect to readily find trash cans for your food wastes or hand wipes.

6. Hygiene products
I struggle the most with choosing which hygiene products. I've got curly hair so in humid weather the kind of hair products I use changes the way my hair behaves. In Japan, I opt for only taking hair gel as I can generally rely on the hair products in the hotels and onsens to be reasonably good, at most I would add conditioner. I also bring sunblock for my face, face lotion, deodorant, and contact cleaner. Everything else I can skip or buy there. Most of my Japanese friends buy toothbrushes at the convenience stores. You can even buy underwear at a convenience store in Japan- but you need to be a fairly small American (I wear a small in America but a large in Japan).

7. Gifts
Japan is a gifting culture that is alien to me- people give gifts when they go to your house, when you come to theirs, and so many other occasions that I don't understand. I often find myself in the awkward position of receiving a gift without one to give. Luckily,  much of the gift giving is food based; it's easy to use it up (this is my minimalism coming out). Bring something from your hometown to share- whether a special spice, t-shirt, a jar of jam- then take it with you if someone invites you over.

8. Get a rail pass card
It's safe and easy to get around Japan whether on the train, subway, or bus. The subways, trains, and buses are easiest with a rail pass. My husband thoughtfully brought our Suica cards from five years before. These electronic cards make daily travels (and using those vending machines for cold drinks) infinitely easier and more efficient since you won't have to fish for coins or make your jet-lagged fogged brain count- add yen to your card and the fare is deducted electronically. Different rail (and bus) lines such as East Japan Railway Co. versus private, etc. may use other cards like the Pasmo. In an around Tokyo, either work for most of your transportation needs. The station agents can help you navigate platforms, train lines, and generally assist you with directions, but there's also an app.


Vending machines in Japan






Thursday, July 17, 2014

Eat Your Vegetables: Quick Pickles

Determined to eat well, we tramp off to the market, buy handfuls of luscious vegetables, and then we stuff the things into the crisper. Later, the once beautiful produce is wilted and no longer looks appetizing. The old veggies are composted, tossed, or maybe made into soup?

Having trouble keeping your vegetables in the edible state? Want another way to add vegetables to your diet? Japan to the rescue!

Pickles of varying types are traditionally eaten at every meal in Japan, yes, that includes breakfast. I had previously thought of pickling to be about cucumbers and water baths, but there is more to pickling, and quick pickling is a handy food preservation method. My cooking teacher, Nansai Sensei, demonstrated how to make quick pickles using a variety of vegetables all mixed together in a jar. This is a variation of her recipe then modified for the American pantry.

You can make and eat quick pickles the same day, though they do have a more intense flavor over time. It allows fresh produce to be stored in a ready to eat state that lasts beyond the usual day or two, and it adds texture and the zingy taste of vinegar to your palate.

Vegetables are best when cut into uniform shapes which is helpful for absorbing flavor. Some vegetables, such as cauliflower, beets, broccoli, carrots, and green beans, need a quick boil (1 to 2 minutes) followed by immersion into cold water to stop the cooking process, drain, and place into the hot pickling juice.  (TIP: Cauliflower will stay whiter if boiled with a slice of lemon).

Improvise with spices, use different types of vinegar, and tweak the recipe to your liking. Store quick pickles in a glass jar in the fridge up to 10 days. Now you can add vegetables to your lunch or easily eat them as a snack right out of the fridge. Heck, I serve them at parties. Combine the pickled vegetables with fresh vegetables for a textural and flavorful contrast in a salad.

Enjoy!


Eat Your Vegetables Quick Pickles
Yield 4 pints or 2 quarts

Useful Equipment
Clean glass jar with lid, pint or quart size

Ingredients for Pickling Juice
Water, 1 quart (4 cups)
White Vinegar, 2 cups
Sugar, 1/3 cup
Pickling or Kosher Salt, 2 Tbsp

Spice Options
Pickling Spice Mix, 1 tsp per pint jar
Dried Hot Red Pepper, 1 per jar (optional)
Bay Leaf, 1 per jar (optional)
Clove of Garlic, 1 per jar (optional)
Mustard Seeds, 1/2 tsp per jar (optional)
Ball Pickle Crisp, 1/8 tsp per pint jar, 1/4 tsp per quart jar (optional for cucumbers, beets)

Vegetable Options
  • Cucumber, wash, cut in half, cut to fit into jar
  • Carrots, wash, peel, cut in sticks, boil 1-2 minutes, plunge into cool water, drain
  • Cauliflower, wash, chop into pieces, boil 1-2 minutes with slice of lemon, plunge into cool water, drain
  • Turnips, wash, quarter, boil 1-2 minutes, plunge into cool water, drain
  • Beets, wash, chop, 1/4-inch slice, boil 1-2 minutes, plunge into cool water, drain (store by themselves-- turns the juice pink)
  • Green Beans, trim ends, wash, boil 1-2 minutes, plunge into cool water, drain
  • Daikon Radish, peel, slice into half moons, boil 1-2 minutes, plunge into cool water, drain
  • Asparagus, trim ends, wash, chop, boil 1-2 minutes, plunge into cool water, drain
  • Garlic, boil 1-2 minutes, remove peel and separate cloves
Directions
  1. Clean and prep vegetables.
  2. Add pickling spices and vegetables to jar(s). 
  3. Bring pickling juice ingredients to boil over medium heat, stir until sugar and salt dissolve.
  4. Pour hot liquid over prepared vegetables in clean jars. 
  5. Add pickle crisp (if using) to each jar of cucumbers, beets, etc.
  6. Label jar.
  7. Wait about 30-45 minutes before eating. Store in the fridge up to 10 days.


Saturday, March 8, 2014

The Wind Rises (Kaze Tachinu) & Miyazaki Plans Exit

The Wind Rises (Kaze Tachinu), an epic film that sweeps through earthquake, fire, and dreams, is seen through the thick round bespectacled airplane designer, Jiro Horikoshi. His singleminded devotion to airplanes and love of flying machines dominates his life and dreams against the historical backdrop of the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, an economic depression, a tuberculous epidemic, and war in Japan. 

Jiro's story is fueled by dreams, sponge cake, and cigarettes. His dreams are shared with an Italian airplane designer, Caproni (voiced by Stanley Tucci), who notes that though the work is designing airplanes, they are used for war and destruction, but he chooses to stay focused on the beauty of the machines, "Airplanes are not for war or making money. Airplanes are beautiful dreams waiting to be swallowed by the sky." Jiro's curmudgeon boss, Kurokawa, (voiced by Martin Short) attempts to counter Jiro's dreaminess. Leaving a meeting with the military brass, Kurokawa says to Jiro, "You weren't even listening!" Jiro's focus is on creating and his response is classic Clint Eastwood, "Nope." 

Work dominates Jiro's life, and yet he is one to pause momentarily for music, to help others, to read poetry, and to take in the beauty of the Japanese countryside. He is not paralyzed by the pain of life or by the knowledge that his flying machines are wanted by the military. Instead he remains steadfast in his efforts to create something original and, to him, beautiful.  In a nod to the economic depression and his military minded customer he knows that he'll need ingenuity to overcome the lack of resources at his disposal from flush rivets to leaving off the guns. My eight year old history buff noted that Jiro's final aircraft was the Zero combat plane used in World War II.

A French poem, "The Graveyard by the Sea" ("Le Cimetière marin") by Paul Valery "The wind is rising!…We must try to live!" ("Le vent se lève!... Il faut tenter de vivre!"), gives the film its title and is at the core the way Jiro deals with obstacles in war, life, and love, it is about living, not regret.

Small doses of humor pepper the story through other characters such as when the Germans complain, "You Japanese copy everything!" Jiro's friend, Honjo (voiced by John Krasinski) quips, "What? Are you afraid we'll improve it?" Still the heart of this Jiro's story is about creating. In a dream sequence Caproni says "Artist are only created for ten years." At the end Caproni returns in another dream to ask him, "Ten years in the sun, did you live them well?"

Jiro's love, Nahoko Satomi (voiced by Emily Blunt) continues the theme of focusing on beauty and the moments at hand instead of the of what they cannot control or have due to the tuberculosis shortening her days. The most poignant scene is voiced by the landlady who stops Jiro's sister from going after Nahoka when she is seen walking away. The landlady (voiced by Jennifer Grey) understands that Nahoka wants Jiro to remember her as she was.

The animation is rich and detailed, the film long. The story's themes are complex and not for children, but for those who can understand the call of beauty and creating art and that the outcome of such work, though it can be used destructively, is born from an inner vision and drive that is without guile. Longing and loss play heavily in the second half of the film. Perhaps writer, director, and animator, Hayao Miyazaki wants us to remember him in a certain way while he still has the energy and will to direct his creativity. The Wind Rises seems a fitting capstone to his career.

"Ten years in the sun, did you live them well?" is a worthy question to ask ourselves.



Saturday, March 1, 2014

Gaijin Tips for Eating Ramen

As a kid I carefully calibrated the ratio of water to flavor packet contents for just the right amount of salty broth to eat with packages of dried ramen noodles. Eventually I worked up to the styrofoam cups of soups that contained dehydrated vegetables and, my favorite, the bits of egg. Elevating ramen to the finest of foods seemed unimaginable back then, but in soup and noodle cultures the world over it has been and is being done. However, it has taken a while to land on the shores of America, and it might be awhile before it takes root in the hinterlands.

In Seattle I became acquainted with the Vietnamese version of beef broth and rice noodles known as pho. Seven years of pho eating in Washington, D.C., where there are a surprising number of pho restaurants, honed my family's passion for soup and noodles. Our son slurped his first rice noodles from a bowl of pho when he was six months old.

Our Japan hometown, Kamakura, is a tourist destination with lots of noodle options-- thick white udon noodles, dark and light buckwheat soba noodles, chewy curling yellow ramen noodles, and still more kinds like somen.  For five glorious years we ate noodles to our hearts' content. On weekends my family lined up at Miyoshi, a clean well-lit udon shop, for its smoky tori-jiro chicken stock and made as you watched udon noodles with a side of tempura. Our favorite soba was at Nakamura-an with its darker, country style, buckwheat noodles. However, we found the ramen master in Yokosuka, right outside the back gate of the Navy base.

First, we had to figure out how to buy a ticket for what we wanted. Ramen shops are small and often use a ticket machine instead of a cash register. Money is inserted, buttons are pushed, and a ticket is printed with the selected order to set before the chef. Though we were illiterate in Japanese, we were quick studies. Hit or miss, I ate what my ticket bought or traded it with my more adventurous husband.

While diners waited, the silent ramen master prepared each bowl with the choreographed moves of a dancer— shaking baskets of noodles, scooping sauces, and laying roast pork over clear broth with yellow noodles aesthetically arranged with a twirl of the chopsticks amidst the sounds of slurping diners, the ping of timers, and the simmering pots with thermometers nearby. Each bowl was garnished with green mizuna leaves, sheets of crisp black nori, and two red goji berries. These five colors of washoku Japanese home cooking-- black, white, yellow, green, and red-- made for a visually appealing bowl of hot steaming ramen that was also amazing to eat. Sadly, the shop moved.

Later a ramen shop opened in Kamakura that made a double soup, two stocks such as fish and chicken, combined just before serving. As far as I know, it's still there by the Tokyu. I went mostly during the day, eating beside delivery truck drivers, business men, and the occasional woman. 

Then my husband retired from the military and our days in Japan ended. 

Our new hometown is a college town, and probably like many university campuses has an influx of Asian students, mainly from China. They are not the passionate foodies I witnessed in Japan sniffing out the out of the way places, willing to wait hours for good food, and snapping photos of every meal. Instead, I see tables littered with partially eaten food and soup bowls coated with grease. You have to ask for the Chinese Chinese menu to even get a noodle bowl, but then they cater to these indiscriminate eaters. Though craving ramen, how to make it has eluded me. Until I spend the time refining my recipes for noodles, soup stocks, and making the components, I'll keep wishing that someone else will do it for me.


Gaijin tips for eating ramen:

  • Don't talk, Eat!
  • Eat it hot!
  • Eat it quick, it’s supposed to be hot
  • Slurp! Suck in cool air along with a mouthful of hot noodles and fat
  • Don’t mind the noise, eat the food
  • Don't talk, Eat!
  • Ramen is not gluten free
  • Dribbles on your chin are to be expected
  • Drink all of the broth
  • Noodles should be chewy, springy
  • Ramen is everyone's food, rich or poor, man or woman
  • If you're desperate for ramen, you can make your own


This is a clip from the udon shop, Miyoshi, in Kamkura-- we are eating zaru udon or cold udon. I never thought to take a photo of hot ready to slurp ramen.


Eating zaru udon at Miyoshi

Ivan Ramen

One morning I heard my husband, the late riser, laughing in bed. He had happened upon a funny video that combined a harsh Long Island Jewish guy with a double shio ramen from Japan. I posted the video to my Facebook page, and a Japanese friend asked, "Is it true story of this guy?" Turns out, he is real. He's a chef, a Japanophile, he has ramen shops in Japan and New York, and he has a new cookbook! The mystery of ramen is revealed in Ivan Ramen a new memoir and cookbook by Ivan Orkin.

This is not about styrofoam cups of instant ramen or dry bricks with the "flavor packet" one finds at the grocery store. This kind of ramen is about layers of flavor, hours of labor, and the magical experience of slurping (and you must slurp in air and thus make noise in order to eat) the hot broth and noodles. His ramen is a double shio salt ramen made with two kinds of stock which is my absolute favorite!

Five years of eating ramen noodles in Japan puts my authenticity button into the ozone. I'm a noodle snob. This book is the closest I've come to comprehending the scoops, techniques, and composition that go into making a bowl of ramen like those found in Japan. It's a rare book that captures what it is to eat ramen. It explains in fascinating detail the evolution, the who's who, and how to not only prepare, but eat ramen-- you must slurp the hot and the fat from a bowl of ramen into your mouth, and yes, it may dribble on your chin. 

Recipes for each component of the ramen he serves are included: chicken fat, pork fat, shio tare salt seasoning, sofrito aromatic vegetable base, katsuobushi seasoned salt, double soup stock, toasted rye noodles, menma cured bamboo shoots, chashu braised pork belly, and the beloved in Japan half-cooked egg. His story about how he got to this point in life, in the kitchen, and in the dual locations of New York and Japan are shared in a warm open hearted way that contrast with his sharp city demeanor on display in the video.

Ivan Orkin is a Culinary Institute of America in New York graduate and chef who brings careful attention to a food he loves. His ramen is prepared with the exacting standards he utilized in kitchens like Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill and the famous French restaurant Lutèce in Manhattan. He explains how to make ramen at home, but you will need great ingredients, lots of time, a weight scale, and a thermometer.

I could kiss his toes for writing this book and giving me the hope that someday I can create a bowl of ramen worthy of the ones I ate in Japan, but in my own kitchen here in the hills of Ohio.

Let the noodling begin!

Ivan Ramen

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Chocolate & the New Farm Bill

As I read the Harry Potty books aloud to my children, I often chuckled over the healing power of chocolate (and wished someone would prescribe some for me). Now that I'm over forty, I have a chocolate stash, a variation of dark chocolate with nuts, for those days when nothing else cures what ails me, namely hormones. I once feared having chocolate easily accessible, but now when I need it, I need it.

My years in Japan dissolved my liking of the super sweet. I find American treats to be cloying with their overt emphasis on the sweetness whether it is from sugar or other sweeteners. I avoid most of the other sweeteners for various reasons (I cried myself silly reading this review of gummy bears made with a substitute). Instead, I seek out small batch producers who use ingredients I can pronounce and pure cane sugar.

I read of the new farm bill compromise, just out from committee, continuing the sugar industry price protections with dismay (see link above). 

The bill cuts food stamps programs, morphs the unpopular direct payments to farmers whether they grow crops or not into an insurance program for corporate crop failures, and continues to keep the price of sugar artificially higher in the States, pushing American soda and candy makers toward the use of  high fructose corn syrup.

I wonder how this new farm bill will effect those in the hills of Ohio, one of the poorest areas in the country. The hills prevent large scale farming. However, hill farmers are small producers, and they accept food stamps at the farmers market. There are no protections for those that will lose food stamp customers. 

Food stamp benefits will be reduced by eighty dollars (per month). I have yet to put myself on a food stamp budget, but from all accounts it is already difficult. Corporations will see changes in the names of their welfare programs; individual human beings in need will just receive less.

This farm bill is expected to be passed by Congress and will be in effect for five years (unless there is the unlikely event where Americans wake up in mass and ask that individuals be protected over corporations). 

I'll keep shopping at the farmers market, searching out root beer made with cane sugar (for occasionally consumption), and restoring my equilibrium with the perfect dark chocolate bar as needed for superior mental health. Meanwhile, be prepared to step up food bank donations over the next five years.


Thursday, December 12, 2013

Serving a Grinch

Strain was palpable on the bartender's face as the restaurant hummed with customers. With only a brief glance at me, he took my order, retreated down the bar, attended to other matters, and then hurriedly placed my drink before me, failing to meet my eyes for more than a nanosecond. Instead, his eyes drifted to the vacant space above the next task. The elements of service were there but it lacked the warmth of my time under the lights. Lest you think I'm an attention hog, let me offer another perspective.

In Japan, lines are long and yet the customer's experience rarely waivers once it's your turn. The bartender stays with the customer until the drink is delivered, no interruptions. The ritual is honored as the drink is painstakingly measured, unhurriedly mixed, and then set before you with fanfare that varies with the bartender's skills of understatement (only in Japan). 

In any financial transaction in Japan, whether at a kiosk or a bank, money is meticulously counted out twice no matter how many others await their turn. First, cashiers counts the money to themselves while you watch, and then the money is again counted as it is given to the customer. Only the bank does this consistently in the States (so far). Recently when I counted out a wad of cash a grocery store cashier handed over to me, the cashier quipped, "We go on trust here!" I continued to count it and quipped back, "Not where I'm from." He probably missed by point.

Trusting that a foot will fall on something solid when stepping into the void is the kind of trust I think the world needs. When every customer's experience is consistent, whether from the bartender to the grocery store cashier, then the experience is about good service not whether I trust a stranger to make my drink or count my change. Even when you know the service provider it is a professionalism and self-respect for the work that is added to the transaction when the service is provided in a consistent and reverential way. 

Respect the work that you do by taking it seriously in the moment

Make me a drink; stay with me. Give me my change; count out my damn money. Act like you respect the work you do; expect me to watch you. Do your work; don't ask me fifty questions on how to do it-- that's why I'm paying you to provide the service. Trust that I will wait for the experience; deliver it. Ignore the chatty co-worker while you are engaged in a customer interaction; stay in the moment.

You have to choose to serve calmness.

Serving Calm, drinking a Grinch

Thursday, May 2, 2013

Taco Rice Salad

I admit it. I lived in Japan too long-- I want rice in my taco salad! My friend Kendo Mama, introduced me to it, and it's a keeper.

Taco Rice Salad
It's not on any local restaurant menus, although, Casa does accommodate my requests with their vegetarian chili taco salad. However, the original is served without beans and tofu. The difference in taste has meant that I kept thinking about it.

The taco seasoning was the rate limiting step; I couldn't bring myself to buy a package of processed taco seasoning from El Paso even if it did taste good in my friend's salad. Finally, I did a Google search and found this recipe for homemade taco seasoning. I, ah, made alot.

I wanted to send some to Kendo Mama to try, plus a few Kodomo no ni Children's Day packages have arrived from Japan. I have some thank-yous to send out, and a little homemade taco seasoning is just the thing to spice it up.

The best part about the homemade taco seasoning? Taste is great and there are no preservatives nor any other unnecessary gunk in it. I had to ride my bike twice to the Farmacy to get enough chili powder which just means that this batch is half organic, one of the quirks of living in the hills of Ohio.

This is the recipe for the Taco Rice Salad I ate at my friend's house in Japan. Vegetarians could try the seasoning with tempeh or tofu. I did use salsa instead of tomatoes-- it's not quite tomato season here yet. I had forgotten how pleasant it is to have the warm rice and ground beef with the cool crunchy lettuce.

I served each layer separately so that the kiddos could make dinner their way. It was a win all the way around the table. My husband was absent, but he'll eat my worst mistakes and say, "I'm just happy there's food on the table." I love cooking for him, it's the two kids who wrack my brains. Try this at your table. Use the link to make the seasoning-- I can vouch for the recipe.

Idatakimasu I humbly receive,
Kim


Homemade Taco Seasoning
Ground Beef cooked with taco seasoning and water

Taco Rice Salad
Adapted from Aya Tambata

Ingredients
Hot Cooked Japanese Rice or whatever kind you like
Cooked Ground Beef + Taco seasoning + Water-- cook until water evaporates
Mexican Mix or Monterrey Jack Cheese, grated
Lettuce, shredded
Salsa or Diced Tomato
Avocado, sliced
Corn Chips, crushed
Fresh Cilantro, 1 to 2 springs, for garnish
Hot Sauce, for garnish

Directions
  1. Cook the rice. 
  2. Saute the ground beef until browned. Add taco seasoning and water. Cook until the water is evaporated, stir often. Set aside.
  3. Prep vegetables: lettuce, tomato if using, avocado, and cilantro.
  4. Layer lettuce, rice, beef, cheese, avocado slices, corn chips, tomato or salsa, and garnish with a spring of cilantro and hot sauce to taste.

Monday, March 18, 2013

Clarity, an Essay on Where Are You From?

I know why it takes years to write a novel now. Friday evening I read my work to a public audience for the first time at Women Speak with Women of Appalachia. Every time I read the piece in preparation for the event, I changed something. Reading to an audience partly obscured by the bright lights wasn't like standing at the podium in Coach West's speech class at DGF High School back in Rota, Spain, but I managed. I wanted to catch an eye and latch on for dear life, but the glare prevented me from locking in on anyone. Listening to others' stories and poems, I found myself moved by a tale of sibling rivalry with it's inherent quest for acknowledgment as well as swimming in the loss of control by a mother grappling with a son's war experiences through cooking and baking recipes in her kitchen. It was a privilege to have the opportunity and it was worth all of the time spent writing and tweaking to have the chance to read aloud. Without further ado, here it is.


Clarity

“Where are you from?” This question was often asked of me because my dad was in the Navy. When people asked, I wasn’t sure because we moved a lot. By the time I was a teenager, we had spent years living in Europe surrounded by ancient cities, cultures, and traditions. The people I saw off base every day knew where they were from, and I longed to know where I was from. I had a feeling I wasn’t Spanish or Italian, but when I asked my dad if we were maybe English or German, he rolled his eyes and said, “You’re a fifth generation hillbilly from Ohio kid.”

Ohio? Ohio was where we drove to visit family every summer. It didn't seem terribly romantic considering that some of my relatives in Ohio still had outhouses. I wanted to be from some place ancient and mysterious like Granada or Iona.  I didn’t want to be stuck to the vinyl seats of my dad's Chevy Nova during the marathon drives from Florida to Ohio reading Archie comic books and asking, “Are we there yet?” I wanted to take the Orient Express to Switzerland.

Ohio wasn't like the places I'd been in Europe. There were Italian and Spanish restaurants in Ohio, but I had never seen an Ohio restaurant in Europe. The only Ohio culinary tradition I could think of was pie for breakfast. In Europe, they had ancient festivals and town parades with relics of long dead saints. In Ohio, we visited the county fair and toured livestock barns. In Spain, we ate churros dipped in thick hot chocolate. In Ohio, there were "elephant ears" served with great big cups of lemonade. In Spain, they had the running of the bulls. In Ohio, they had tractor pulls, demolition derby, and the Tilt-O-Whirl. It was an existential crisis of sorts at that point in my adolescence. 

That is not to say that I didn't feel a nostalgic tug when my dad mentioned Ohio. Ohio summers were dinners of vegetables just pulled from the garden, family lounging on green grass, canoeing down shaded rivers, and cousins in hot pursuit of lightening bugs. My parents picked up where they left off with their friends and family, catching up on all the local news. In Ohio, friendships went back to first grade. In the Navy, you asked, “How long will you be here?” before making friends in hopes of finding some that might be there until the end of the school year.

Another thing they had in Ohio was basements. I'd seen a dungeon or two in Europe, but no basements, and we certainly didn't have them in Florida which is where I spend most of my childhood outside of Europe bouncing between Navy bases. 

The basement was a magical place for me as a child. These dark, cool, cave-like places were fitted with work tables, peg boards hung with tools, flat surfaces littered with pieces and parts, and seemingly endless rows of my grandma’s canning jars filled with this and that from the garden. In the basement, my grandpa repaired machines and my grandma reupholstered furniture, built lamps, and stored summer’s bounty. In Florida, we bought things in a store. In Ohio, my grandma and my aunts “put up” beans, corn, peppers, carrots, beets, jellies, jams, apple sauce, and even mustard. In Florida, we didn’t make much other than dinner. The brief sojourns to Ohio contrasted with the rest of my childhood, spent in Navy towns more notable for the presence of topless bars, pawn shops, and suburban sprawl than gardens or lighting bugs. 

It certainly wasn't Europe, but I’d always sensed a stability in Ohio that I didn't feel elsewhere. As fate would have it, I married a Navy guy, from Ohio, and continued the nomadic existence of my childhood. I worked as a hospital nurse and at every new duty station, people invariably asked the question that now seemed like salt rubbed into an open wound, “So where are you from? What do you do?” My husband never hesitated to answer, "Athens, Ohio," but I usually resorted to a deep breath, and, "I don’t know, my dad was in the Navy."

When children came into our lives, negotiating work and home created a tension between where my heart was and where it wanted to be. Work provided financial compensation and a sense of accomplishment-- people sought out my advice and expertise and often followed it. Home was full of people and things that had unending needs. I had it my head that there was some kind of balance I could achieve that looked like my neighbors and friends--  perhaps a part time job, a new position, a schedule for home life, a meal plan with shopping lists? I longed for short cuts that covered all the bases if performed at some unattainable level of efficiency. While my Capitol Hill neighbors put on a good show, the constant numbing fatigue, juggling of schedules, and dining on takeout was not how I had imagined living my life.

When the Navy assigned my husband to Japan, I took a break from my nursing career. Having just come from the work-equals-identity culture of the Beltway, it was not an easy decision. But, I looked forward to the new focus on home life, my children, and exploring Japan. 
We ignored every bit of advice from our fellow Americans and rented a house forty-five minutes from the umbilical of the Navy base. With our children enrolled in a local Japanese yochien preschool, it dawned on me that I had a job. The title of which I still hear repeated throughout the day: “Mama.” Being a Japanese yochien preschool mama is a full-time occupation. As with other jobs in Japan, you are expected to be completely devoted to your work and give one hundred percent. There are obento boxes to make, smocks and bags to sew, and mandatory “volunteer” events, meetings, and activities to attend, weekends included. 

My willingness to show up, even though I couldn’t speak Japanese, meant that I, the gaijin (a foreigner), was included. And so, we “band of mothers” collaborated. We read library books to the children (I in English) and then went for coffee. We wrote, practiced, and performed our requisite “fun” skit for the children for weeks and then celebrated our grand finale with an all-you-can-drink-for-ninety-minutes party at a local Izakaya (a pub), just like Japanese men in the corporate world do after closing a deal. 

As my children’s school days grew longer, there was more opportunity for me to participate in Japanese culture. From cooking lessons in Japanese for five years, the Japanese names of vegetables like nasu (eggplant), daikon (radish), and engan (greenbean) came into my vocabulary and proved helpful at the farmer’s market. New textures and flavors like the umami rich savory dashi stock, the chewiness of mochi pounded rice, and the sour surprise of the umeboshi pickled plum found their way to the table at home. From Ikebana, I learned to arrange flowers as they asked to be arranged.

An American friend took time to teach a few of us to use our sewing machines. We were a group of beginners, and we made every mistake imaginable. We sewed the fabric backwards, sideways, and inside out, and became intimately acquainted with the seam ripper. But, for the first time, the gifts I sent home were sewn by me.

Living in a country with a language I could not speak and time devoted to the needs of others, left me with things to say but no outlet. I started a blog. The internet connected me with readers, a blog widget dutifully counted the clicks of those who stopped by, and the surprise when an idea transformed into a story kept me coming back to the keyboard. In pursuing these “simple” things that too often get pushed aside in the bustle of modern life, like cooking, sewing, and writing, I discovered the wonders of creating.

Art, for me, had been a passive thing-- admiring the works of the masters. It was art beyond my capabilities. But, my experiences in Japan opened my eyes to another understanding of creativity and in a sense took me back to those summers in Ohio.

I think back now to the things my grandparents did-- the furniture given new life, the bounty of a summer garden, the jars lining the basement shelves. Creativity was part of my grandparents' daily lives in a way that I had not experienced until I landed in Japan. I thought back to my time in the Beltway, to those movers and shakers I had once envied. I wonder if in the pursuit of position, power, or prestige that others define for us, do we loose the connection to the imagination and the creativity that more truly defines us?

In the city, people could hide behind expensive cars, trendy clothes, and important titles. I had never found that simple serenity my grandpa had sitting on his porch as daylight faded with his pipe, listening to the crickets chirp, the frogs sing, and watching the lazy flight of the summer lightning bugs.

When our time ended in Japan and with the Navy, my husband and I asked each other where we should go. We arrived at the same place, Athens. Over the years, we had regularly visited. It was a place where, as my husband used to say when we came back, we could "hear the air and smell the earth."  

My city friends might not understand the lure of Athens. There are no fancy restaurants touting an exotic “catch of the day” flash frozen in a faraway ocean. Instead, the waitress with her three pony tails and one nose ring, informs you that the seasonal vegetable of the day is “butternut squash with apples” from a nearby farm. Dressing up at times is simply a pair of clean jeans. Having your nails done means that you’ve checked for dirt after gardening. Instead of following someone else’s vision of success and hoping for the elusive promotion to the circles of power, people tend to follow their own vision and everyone seems to have an artistic alter ego.

Life in Athens is slower, there are fewer distractions, and with that, I have found clarity. I know now what I didn't understand all those years ago when I asked my Dad where we were from. It’s about creating a life that feels good on the inside. 

I haven't worn pearls in a long time, and I don’t worry about what to wear opening night at the opera anymore. Here, I write, make Japanese recipes for the American kitchen, restring beads on a broken necklace, and trade loaves of bread for blocks of tofu. I focus on the work of my hands as it comes to fruition. 

Here in Athens, I have a back porch where I can sit at the end of day. This summer, as the light fades, I will be sitting there, sipping a mug of tea, listening to the crickets and the frogs, and watching my children chase the lightning bugs. I’m from the hills of Ohio now.

The Hills of Ohio


Thursday, February 21, 2013

Sushi Cake

I was inspired by my own blog to make the sushi cake recipe that my cooking teacher in Japan, Nansai sensei, taught me last year. I'd forgotten how tasty it is plus it looks really cool! I also noted a problem with the original recipe, namely that I know intuitively that a cup of rice refers to the Japanese rice cup measurement of  3/4 cup,  but that the rest of the world may not know this! Oops! I revised the recipe and updated it for both the original post and now this one.

Idatakimasu I humbly receive,
Kim

Sushi Cake 
Adapted from Aki Nansai

Ingredients

Kombu Dried Kelp/Seaweed, 1 stick (2 x 6-inches)
Rice (short or medium grain rice is what is  used in Japanese cooking), 3 Japanese rice cups-- 3/4 cup each-- or 2 ¼ cups!
Kombu Water, 3 Japanese rice cups or 2 ¼ cups! total (to include 3 Tbsp of Sake)
Sake, 3 Tbsp

Rice Vinegar, 60 cc + 10 cc (to make up for the amount the carrots absorb)
Sugar, 1 Tbsp
Salt, 1 ½ tsp

Carrot, ~¼-inch (5 mm) thick flower cut x 8 flowers (~½ carrot)
White Sesame Seeds, 3 Tbsp
Rabe/Rapini, ~2 cups fresh then boiled, drained, chopped (save 8 florets) (spinach or broccoli also work)
Ground Chicken, ~8 to 9 oz/200 to 250 gm
Soy Sauce, 2 Tbsp
Sugar, 2 Tbsp
Mirin, 2 Tbsp
Sake, 1 Tbsp

Eggs, 6
Sugar, 3 Tbsp
Salt, 1/2 tsp


Equipment
8-inch (21-cm) round springform pan with a removable bottom
Damp towel by the stove to cool down the pot
Chopsticks x 4
Spatula
Plastic Dough Scraper
Wide shallow bowl
Vegetable Cutter in the shape of a flower
Rice Cooker or heavy bottom pot with a tight fitting lid

What to do
  1. Soak kombu kelp in water for about 1 hour. Save the water to cook the rice. 
  2. Wash the rice three times and drain x 30 minutes
  3. Cook the rice: Mix together the rice and liquid (kombu water & sake) which should be of equal amounts- cook on the stove top in a heavy bottom pot with a tight fitting lid or a rice cooker. 
  4. Stir together the vinegar, sugar, and salt to make the awasezu sauce.
  5. Cut the carrot with a flower shaped cutter, boil it, and then soak it in the awasezu sauce. 
  6. In a dry pan over low heat, roast the sesame seeds, stirring a bit, about 3 minutes. Grind them gently in a suribachi bowl (or some kind of mortar and pestle) to release their aroma, about 1 minute.
  7. Place a damp towel, folded like a hot pad, near the cooking area to cool down the pan as needed.
  8. In a pot over medium low heat, stir together the chicken, soy sauce, sugar, mirin, and sake. Cook until the sauce is absorbed, about 15 minutes, stirring with 3 or 4 chopsticks to prevent clumping. Cooling the pot down as necessary on the damp towel to prevent it from cooking too quickly.
  9. Whisk together eggs, sugar, and salt. In a pot over high-low to medium-low heat, add egg mixture and stir often with 4 chopsticks to break up the eggs and keep them broken apart. A spatula is also helpful-- spread the mixture and scrape the mixture repeatedly to keep it smooth. The eggs should sound wet (slurping sound) when stirring them. They will be moist and bright yellow. Cook until almost set, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and continue to stir a few times to be sure that the eggs stay broken apart while cooling. Chop them up with the dough scrapper if needed.
  10. Wipe clean an 8-inch springform pan with a removable bottom and deep sides. 
  11. Boil the rabe, drain, and squeeze out water.  Save 8 florets for a garnish and chop the remaining finely.
  12. When the rice is cooked, dump it into a wide shallow bowl to cool gently- may fan or use a damp cloth. Remove the carrots from your awasezu sauce and pour the sauce over the rice. Use a rice paddle and chopsticks to stir so that the rice won't clump into a ball. When the rice is shiny and cool, stirring with rice paddle and chopsticks, mix in the chopped rabe and sesame seeds. Divide in half.
  13. Using a plastic dough scraper, place the egg mixture into the cake pan. Press from the center outward, along the edges, and then down to form a tight even layer. Next add half of the rice mixture and again use the plastic dough scrapper to press evenly from the center outward, along the edges, and then down to form an even tight layer. Repeat this method with the cooked chicken and then the other half of the rice mixture. Finally, press firmly down on the whole cake evenly. Repeat to insure it is pressed together firmly and evenly.
  14. Release the cake from the springform pan. Use a long knife to assist in the release of the sushi cake from the pan. Place a serving platter on top of the cake pan. Invert the pan and gently remove the pan. The bottom will still be in place. Again use the knife to slip between the pan and the cake to facilitate the pan's removal-- a kind of slurping sound is heard as you release the egg layer. Remove the pan bottom. Garnish the top of your sushi cake with the carrot flowers and the rabe florets. Cut into 8 pieces and serve.
Sushi Cake-- made with eggs, sushi rice, rapini, and ground chicken

Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Fat Tuesday & bills Ricotta Hotcakes

Scrambling between a hair cut, a PTO meeting, and piano lessons, I pulled out bill's Ricotta Hotcakes for Fat Tuesday. I lived near enough to New Orleans to know that I ought to have made gumbo, but that's a weekend meal at my house.

We discovered bills in Japan. Bill Granger is an Australian chef whose first foray into Japan was a hop, skip, and jump away from our stomping grounds in Kamakura. The restaurant in Shichirigahama is popular for its laid back beach vibe and tasty dishes. We most often went for breakfast, but you have to show up early to beat the tourist. Ricotta Hotcakes, funny enough, were served for breakfast, as an appetizer, and for dessert at dinner.

I love the combination of the these hotcakes with bananas and maple syrup, but the rest of my family prefers the hotcakes with apple butter, a hills of Ohio touch. Breakfast for dinner is odd to my kiddos, but as an only child, I ate a fair amount of scrambled eggs and toast for dinner. They scarfed these down anyway. The hotcakes are good with a side of bacon and roasted tomatoes, but the restaurant always serves them with Honeycomb Butter.

If you haven't tried them, do!

Adapted from bills food by Bill Granger
Serves 4

Ingredients
Eggs, 4, separated
Ricotta, 1 ⅓ cups
Milk, ¾ cup
All-purpose Flour, 1 cup
Baking powder, 1 tsp
Salt, a pinch

Butter, 2 Tbsp (~50 gm)
Banana, 1 sliced
Maple syrup or Powdered Sugar or Honeycomb Butter, garnish

What to do
  1. Separate egg yolks and egg whites.
  2. Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form.
  3. Combine ricotta and milk with the egg yolks. 
  4. Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. 
  5. Add the sifted mix to the ricotta mix and stir until just combined. 
  6. Fold egg whites through batter in two batches, with a large metal spoon.
  7. Lightly grease a large non-stick frying pan or griddle with a small portion of the butter and drop 2 tablespoons of batter per hotcake into the pan (small batches are best). Cook over a low to medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, or until hotcakes have golden undersides. Turn hotcakes and cook on the other side until golden and cooked through. 
  8. Transfer to a plate, stack 3 hotcakes, top with bananas, garnish with maple syrup or a dusting of powdered sugar.


Honeycomb Butter
Unsalted Butter, 8.8 oz (250 gm), softened
Sugar honeycomb crushed with a rolling pin or a Crunchie bar, 3.5 oz (100 gm)
Honey, 2 Tbsp

Place all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth. Shape into a log on plastic wrap, roll, seal and chill in a refrigerator for 2 hours. Store leftover honeycomb butter in the fridge for up to 24 hours, or in the freezer-- great on toast.

Bill's Ricotta Hotcakes in Shichirigahama, Japan

Monday, February 4, 2013

The Fugitive Fest & a Film


I rode my bike up a one way street in the rain holding an umbrella while, unbeknownst to me, an armed gunman was lurking at a university housing complex nearby. Upon arrival at home, I crashed into a neighbor's driveway. She kindly came out to check on me. My circa 1970's Triumph bike's brakes don't work so well, wet or dry, add that my feet can't touch the ground when I'm in the saddle and the umbrella in my hand and it's a miracle I survived the day. The gunman was never captured, and it was all over five bucks. The day off was dubbed “The Fugitive Fest” as the bars uptown were, of course, open.

For Christmas my husband gave me a DVD of Shiawase no Pan or The Bread of Happiness, however, due to language restrictions, we couldn't play it on our player. In the end, we decided to buy a player to devote to Japanese language films, and so with its arrival, I could finally watch my Christmas present.. 

The film is set in Hokkaido, the northern part of Japan, a place of great natural beauty. A couple open a cafe and hotel after leaving Tokyo. Through sharing bread, they help the lonely hearts that come their way. It's sad to watch the little girl relive the loss of her mother over a bowl of pumpkin soup, but she gets her father back over another bowl of pumpkin soup and bread. It's all about bread, chestnut bread, potato bread, dried fruit breads, every kind of hot steamy bread. Break off a piece of bread and share it with someone. There is some silliness like the customer's bag that is never opened, like laying drunk in a field of grass crying for yourself, like the plaid suit the postman wears. The small community includes a glass artist that sneaks in her work and break pieces that are flawed. All the while every scene begins or ends with bread. I want the recipe book!

There is a kind of stillness and quietness to the main characters that stayed with me after the viewing. The focus on making bread, on preparing a cup of coffee, on making food was so deliberate and exacting as if there was nothing else. It seems so rare to feel this in life, something to work toward.


Saturday, December 22, 2012

Umeboshi & Shiso


Umeboshi offerings at the Japanese store in Columbus

Umeboshi are extremely sour and salty and look like shriveled plums except they are really a kind of apricot. They are one of my favorite flavors from Japan. I encountered umeboshi in restaurants and quick marts like 7-11, but it took a while before I wrangled my way into the grocery store and bought some. Knowing I liked them didn't mean that I knew what to do with them at home.

On a recent foray into Columbus, I noted the Japanese market Tensuke was stocked with several kinds of umeboshi. Fortunately, I have a stash thanks to a friend in Japan sharing her homemade supply with us, but I couldn't resist snapping a photo and encouraging others to try them.

At the market, I picked up some shiso perilla leaves which I can't find locally. Together umeboshi and shiso are a dynamic duo. The combination is found in all sorts of concoctions in Japan-- sushi, fried fish, and even pasta.

I hope to grow shiso next summer. It's a great addition to all kinds of things like cucumber pickles. The ume tree (prunus mume) will grow in zone 6 (here in Ohio), but I haven't found two spots (to pollinate it I understand you need two) in the yard yet.

Stuff chopped shiso and umeboshi inside your next meal, it might delight you too.


Simple everyday idea for umeboshi:
Chop up (or not) one or two umeboshi, toss the pit, and stuff the mash inside some hot Japanese sticky rice that you have properly washed and cooked to make delicious onigiri rice balls.

It also tastes great as a dip for raw vegetables when mixed with miso. For umemiso chop up a few umeboshi and cook them with a 2/3 cup of miso over low heat to allow the flavors to combine, allow to cool, and serve with raw vegetables for dipping particularly stick cut carrots, seedless cucumber, and daikon white radish.


Friday, November 30, 2012

Silk Tofu Cake

A friend brought a "tofu cheese cake" to my house in Japan except that when I ate it, it was unlike the thick heavy cheese cake I was used to eating. Instead it was soft and light. For these sinfully rich holidays ahead, you might find this a useful recipe to try. It is light, creamy, and it has a zesty lemon flavor that blends well with the creaminess of the tofu. Use silk tofu for its smooth texture. I have adapted the recipe below for the American cook based on my friend's recipe from Japan.

Silk Tofu Cake

Silk Tofu Cake

Adapted from Takemi’s recipe


Ingredients
Silk Tofu, Drain thoroughly, 1 block (~13 oz/382 gm)
Graham crackers, 2.8 oz (~12 crackers), crushed
Granulated sugar, 1 tsp
Melted Butter, 4 Tbsp
Unflavored Gelatin, 2 packages (½ oz/14 gm)
Water, 4 Tbsp
Organic lemons*, 2 zest & juice
Granulated sugar, ⅓ cup
Whipping Cream, 1 cup
Equipment
Springform pan ~18 cm/ 7-inch circle
Food processor

What to do
  1. Drain the tofu and set it aside on a rack to continue draining.
  2. Prepare Crust: Combine graham crackers, sugar, and melted butter into food processor (or in a plastic bag) and combine until fine. Press into springform pan. Place into freezer to harden for 15 minutes. 
  3. Mix together gelatin and water and allow to soften, about 5 minutes. 
  4. Zest the lemons. Cut the lemons in half. Juice the lemons. Mix lemon zest, lemon juice, and sugar in a pot. Over medium heat, bring to a boil and stir until the sugar is dissolved-- it must come to a boil. Remove from heat and allow cool about 5 minutes. Stir in the softened gelatin.
  5. Process the tofu until smooth in a blender or food processor. Add the lemon mixture and scrape down the sides with a spatula. Repeat x 3. Add the whipping cream. Mix and scrape down x 3. When the consistency is thoroughly mixed and very smooth, pour the mix into the crust. Cover with plastic wrap to protect from odors. Chill in the fridge about 3 hours, until set. 
  6. To serve, remove from pan, slice-- keep the knife clean by wiping it off after each slice. Serve with garnish such as a dollop of whip cream, fruit sauce, mint leaf, or lemon rind twist.
*Organic fruit is suggested when eating the rind.